About Face

As I age, I often think about minimizing Father Time’s impact, undoing the damage I've caused, and stopping it from worsening. I’m sure lots of women feel the same way. For years, I believed in the old saying, "Black don't crack," but after working in the beauty industry for two decades (and getting older), I can assure you that it does. It just takes a little longer. Black women have been admired for centuries for their slow-aging skin and youthful appearance despite their age, largely due to their UV-fighting melanin. Melanin is like a natural sunscreen that protects our skin from cancer and helps keep wrinkles at bay. It's like a smartwatch that’s water-resistant but not completely waterproof. We don’t notice the difference until we wear it for six hours, jumping in and out of the ocean. Similarly, our melanin also has its limitations.  

Black women have been stepping up their skin game lately, addressing issues like uneven skin tones and acne scarring with professional treatments at spas, with facials, chemical peels, and anti-aging services. Med spas offer a combination of dermatology expertise and the luxury of a day spa; however, this group of women has been underrepresented in the industry for many years. For some, it’s still a hard pass. The belief that our skin doesn't need much to thrive, combined with the lack of Black skincare education in the spa industry, has kept many of us from seeking professional skincare treatments outside our homes. However, as technology changes and beauty education becomes more inclusive, many Black women have opted to venture out.  I, too, decided to be proactive and give the professional spa experience a try, and stop relying so heavily on genetics and in taking care of my skin as I age.

PROFESSIONAL FACIAL

I had never considered going to med spas because I hardly ever saw people who looked like me, whether on the signage when I walked past, or when I peered through the window, or when I dropped in to ask for a pamphlet. So, I was fairly certain they didn’t understand the functional and structural differences of my skin and wouldn’t be able to treat it adequately. Then, one day, while I was on set doing makeup on a Black model, I kept raving about how beautiful her skin was. Of course, most models have great skin, but hers was exceptional. She told me about her monthly visits to the spa for facials and referred me to her aesthetician, who I called immediately to make an appointment. I was surprised to learn how much the industry had changed since my last visit. It was more inclusive, and I felt seen in a space where I didn't expect to be because my skin didn’t look like the typical patient’s. During the initial exam, we talked for quite some time, and she was so educated on darker-pigmented skin that it was clear this would not be a one-size-fits-all treatment.  I was introduced to the HydraFacial, which, unlike traditional facials, utilizes a wand that penetrates the skin more deeply than facials performed with hands, leaving the skin hydrated and dewy. I was both impressed and disgusted at the amount of grime the machine sucked from my pores, but the breakouts I was having made more sense after seeing it. She explained that the facials would start to address my skin congestion, acne, and dark spots over time, and I was excited at the prospect of clearer skin. Call me impatient, but after a few treatments, I became increasingly aware that I needed a more aggressive approach.

CHEMICAL PEEL

I had several skin issues, but the worst (in my opinion) was the dark acne scars on my cheeks. While the facials were indeed helping with my overall skin health, they weren’t getting the blemishes where I wanted them to be quickly enough. I tried using over-the-counter fade creams, but they didn't do much to lighten the spots. During one of my facial treatments, we discussed chemical peels, which sounded like a game-changer and a faster route to fading the blemishes. Sign me up! Then, a friend warned me that chemical peels could be risky for melanin-rich skin, so I was disappointed and hesitant. My aesthetician explained that although people with darker skin are more prone to hyperpigmentation (patches of skin that are darker in appearance than the surrounding skin), chemical peels weren’t considered dangerous for Black women, so she suggested that we start with a gentler peel, like a superficial or medium-depth peel. After the first treatment (we opted for a medium-depth one), I noticed that the dark spots had lightened considerably. This allowed me to use less foundation and still look good. It took multiple treatments to get rid of the stubborn dark spots that had been stressing me for years, but we finally got there. When she showed me the before-and-after photos, I was blown away by how far my skin had come and had a fresh glow I definitely hadn’t seen before. I was one happy girl!

BOTOX (Yep, I said it)

I still get invited to parties and events, but I'm picky about which ones I attend. Full disclosure: I don't bounce back as quickly as I used to. So, when my friend invited me to a Botox party at a nearby spa, I was excited and said yes immediately. I had been taking better care of my skin and was open to trying new beauty treatments, even those that people usually say “Black women don't need.” What can I say? I’m a rebel. I had only heard about Botox treatments before, and it wasn’t always positive, so I wanted to see for myself what the hype was about. The resident dermatologist did a pretty thorough crash course on the procedure, and after watching several people brave the needle, including my friend, I jumped in the chair to see if I could get rid of the lines between my brows. Now, I know melanin resists wrinkles and fine lines, but I had some pretty deep ones that I took issue with, so I was anxious to see the difference. Word to the wise: whether you lose the lines or the ability to make facial expressions depends on how skilled your injector is. So, do your research, sis! Anyway, I had a great experience, and the frown lines that reminded me of my mother are gone (temporarily), and I'm officially a Botox convert.  

 Lately, my skin has been looking pretty good, with no significant breakouts or dark spots, so my go-to makeup consists of penciled-in brows, a little concealer under my eyes, mascara, and some lip balm. That’s it!  It was truly eye-opening to visit a med spa that welcomed Black women and helped me achieve my desired skin goals. Instead of just masking my blemishes, I received proper treatment and education on how to care for my skin, and I now have a healthier complexion. Daily sunblock, lots of water, professional facial treatments, and a little Botox are my contributions to helping my melanated genes out a little… You know, so my “Black don’t crack.” But mainly to ensure that my skin and I age comfortably, and on our terms.